The sun-baked stones of Chichén Itzá silently mark the passage of time, oblivious to the quiet footsteps and incongruously hushed comments of the loudly dressed tourists who violate the sacred temples with passable reverence. The tourists stand, awestruck, staring up at the few brave souls who dare to climb the steep angles of El Castillo, “The Castle”, the pyramid centerpiece of this ancient Mayan city. The quiet voices of tour guides speak in a half-dozen languages, telling the compelling story of a people largely known for their brilliant architectural skills, astronomical knowledge, and use of human sacrifice. The clicking of cameras competes with the random claps and shouts from tourists and guides who experiment with Chichén Itzá’s strange acoustics. For all the noise and people, Chichén Itzá remains strangely quiet and still and holy.

Chichén Itzá is surrounded by jungle on all sides, and there are few of the comforting Caribbean Ocean breezes that bless nearby Cancun. The air hangs hot and muggy, stirred only rarely by the barest breeze. El Castillo exudes an overwhelming sense of sacredness. The place is literally drowning in ancient psychic energy. At this point, however, the ancient energy is unfocused, dormant, lying in wait like the coils of the feathered serpents that decorate so many corners and entranceways. The footsteps of so many tourists have drummed out a lot of the ancient energy of the original inhabitants. The modern emotions of mystery, awe and wonder now permeates the stones, making it hard to sense much from the original inhabitants. Still, their powerful intent can still be sensed on the deepest levels.

I sensed at least three major cultural periods, a fact confirmed by our guide, but unlike some other historical sites I have visited, there were few spiritual voices strong enough to break through the oppressive psychic cloud. One voice, the spirit of a young priestess and willing sacrifice, managed to bring through a number of stunning images into my mind. What struck me was her willingness, eagerness to die on behalf of her people, her certainty that the mission had been in fact accomplished, and her adamancy that it was a sacred and even profoundly blissful experience. I could not bring myself to be sad for her, so passionate, proud and strong was her mind.

El Castillo de Kukulkán

The main temple pyramid is perhaps best known for the miracle of the vernal equinox. “El Castillo de Kukulkán” (“The Castle of Kukulkán”, the feathered serpent) was designed so precisely that every year at the equinoxes, the steps of the pyramid cast a snake-like shadow on the steep sides of the staircases. Thousands of people congregate at the site twice each year to witness the spectacle, but the park simulates the event with nightly light shows. The thought of the huge courtyard, packed with so many people of such diverse spiritual beliefs seems rather ironic in the face of the serious and violent mysteries of Mayan beliefs.

While the astronomical precision of El Castillo is its most famous attribute, the builders of the ancient temples were masters of acoustic manipulation as well. If you stand at the base of the pyramid and clap, you will hear a strange “pinging” sound, something like a cross between a chirp and the sound of a guitar string being plucked. This sound resembles the call of the quetzal, or messenger of the gods, an exotic local bird whose spectacular feathers were used in the headdresses of Mayan kings. There are similar acoustic effects around the site, including in the ball court where the same clapping sound will echo exactly seven times (a number sacred to the Maya, and to many modern peoples). A whisper at one end of the 545-foot court can be clearly heard at the other side.

Named for a unique spiraling staircase inside the observatory, the most striking thing about El Caracol from the outside is its unmistakable resemblance to modern astronomical observatories. The tower, built on two platforms, was the location where the ancient Maya meditated and studied the stars. This site does not give off the strong emotions of the other buildings at Chichén Itzá, it is a much more restful place where the primary feeling is one of curiosity. There is a strange complex of emotion that hangs over the place, though, regret for knowledge lost, regret that the sacredness of the place has been lost, resignation to the path of change.

The Cenoté

Cenotés (si-'nO-tE) are natural wells or sinkholes, formed by weak pockets of limestone in the crust of the earth. There are a number of public cenotés in the Yucatan region where modern swimmers and snorkelers can take a cool break from the heat. I chose not to visit the cenoté at Chichén Itzá, however. The muggy psychic energy I sensed seemed centered on this area. It was not until much later that I learned Chichén Itzá means “mouth of the well” or “Opening of the Wells of the Itza”. I knew in advance that it would likely be a place of heavy energy. The heat had sapped my strength to face such a place. This well was the final resting-place for many of the victims of the human sacrifice cult of the ancient inhabitants of Chichén Itzá. It is believed that much of the treasure they took with them remains at the bottom of the cenoté, though excavations in the early 1900’s unearthed hundreds of skeletons. Most of the treasure and artifacts that have been found were removed by archeologist Edward Thompson, who donated them to the Peabody Museum at Harvard.

My feeling was that not all of the victims of the cenoté were killed before they were tossed into the well, nor were they all necessarily sacrifices. I did not get a heavy feeling in my chest that I would associate with that kind of death. Rather, I got a strong impression of drowning or being smothered. I know this runs counter to the traditional beliefs of the way these people met their deaths, but it is possible that there were different methods of sacrifice, depending on the particular god or effect being sought. I also had a strong feeling that a good number of the children found in the well were actually victims of accidental falls.

Travel Tips & Notes:

Carry a passport and driver’s license for identification when you visit Mexico. On entry, you will pass through a random luggage check. You will be asked to press a button, and if your light comes up green, you go in. If the light is red, they check all your bags. Once you are cleared, you will be given a Mexican Tourist Card. Keep it with you at all times when in Mexico, and have it handy when you depart.

You can drive to Chichén Itzá or arrange for a bus tour at your hotel. The ruins are about 2.5 hours West of Cancun. Wear light clothing, bring a strong sunscreen, hats and lots of bottled water. During July and August temperatures average 35 degrees Celsius, and you may find there is less tourist traffic in mid-summer (most Americans travel domestically with their families at this time). If you take a tour, you will be provided with a parasol. You will be standing in the sun or in light shade for about two hours, and will then have a short period of time to explore on your own.

If you travel to Chichén Itzá during the Equinoxes (March 21, September 21), remember, this is a popular destination for spiritually-minded travelers. You will meet many like-minded people, but you may find it crowded. Book hotels and bus reservations well in advance for this period.

Bus tours, which originate at local hotels, cost about $75-$100 US dollars. Ours included a stop at a local tourist art centre and the Ik-Kil cenoté. You can swim at Ik-Kil if you want to, but our stop was short, only 45 minutes. You may wish to rent a car and travel to the many other local attractions, such as the ruins at Tulum. If you enjoy snorkeling, swimming and diving, you will want to visit Cozumel, or eco-parks like Xel-Ha and Xcaret where you can swim with dolphins, snorkel with angel fish and stingrays, and swim an underground river.

Sunscreens, even the so-called “waterproof” variety, offer little to no protection while snorkeling – wearing a t-shirt over your swimsuit instead will be less fashionable but far more effective protection for vulnerable shoulders. You may be asked to surrender any oil-based sunscreen. The parks sell a special water-based variety that does not disturb the eco-system or soil the water. It costs more than standard sunscreen, but once you have it, you can take it into the other parks. Put sunscreen on your face and arms after you get out of the water (remember, when you are snorkeling you are face-down for the most part). Bring batteries and film, as such supplies are costly in the parks.

Quality accommodations are available at Cancun and Cozumel, and at numerous “all-inclusive” resorts around the quaint beach-town of Playa del Carmen. Some resorts feature their own private beaches, with small reefs, snorkeling and water sports on site.