Pu’uhonua o Hōhaunau

National Historical Park

Kona Coast of The Big Island, Hawaii

Life for ancient Hawaiians must have been precarious to say the least. Not only did they have to endure wars and invasions by other tribes trying to usurp Ali’i  and take lands, they also had to live by a strict set of laws known as Kapu. The object of War in those days was to exterminate the enemy and this included anyone who belonged to the other side. Those too old or young to fight and defeated warriors were in need of a place of refuge as were those who broke the Kapu.  Pu’uhonua was such a place  and anyone who made it there was assured of safety, those escaping war stayed until the battle was over and then their allegiance went to the victor.  

Kapu  forbid common people from looking at the chief, getting close to him, walking in his footsteps or touching his possessions, nor could his or her shadow fall on royal grounds. Everyday activities were also regulated by the Kapu, women could not eat with men, they could not eat the foods prepared for the Gods or even prepare the food for the men.  Hawaiians believed that if Kapu was broken it would displease the Gods and lead to disaster such as poor fishing, hunting, crop failure, tidal waves or volcanic eruption courtesy of Madame Pele, the Goddess of Fire.  If Kapu was broken the penalty was always death.  In order to protect themselves from disasters the people pursued the Kapu breaker until he or she was caught.  If they made it to the Pu’uhonua they were given sanctuary  and a ceremony of absolution was given by the Kahuna (priest) and the offender could return home safely. 

Hōnaunau are Royal Grounds, Ali’i (kings) of the Kona district lived here, and the lands descended down from the mountain and included a portion of the sea.  This area contained land for crops, fresh water and fishing, all the things essential for a good life on Hawaii.  The area forming this Historical Park showed a compound of several typical buildings of the time as well as a great wall which separated the Royal grounds from the Pu’uhonua, the place of refuge. 

What made the area sacred and safe was the bones of ali'i which were buried in the Heiau. The bones of Ali'i were said to possess manu or spiritual power.  The Heiau in this Park was built around 1650 it is known as The Hale o Keawe, so named because it was built in honour of  Keawe’ikekahhiali’I o kamoku, The Great Grandfather of Kamehameha I. After the death of Keawe his bones were placed in the temple and, as he was an especially important chief, the mana of Keawe was believed to protect the entire Pu’uhonua. 

(view to the palace enclosure)

Despite the dire consequences of being an ancient Hawaiian this place has a nice feel about it.  I sensed a group of people going about their business gaining comfort from their routines and laws.  Unlike the negative energy I felt at Pu’ukohola Heiau National Heritage Site  the energy here was very calm, restful and welcoming. 

I walked around the buildings and the grounds and came close to a half made hut, a great example of how a traditional hut was made and something I had been looking for since I had arrived in Hawaii.  This hut was smallish and placed near the sea and as I approached it I suddenly hit one of those pockets of energy I had experienced at other important and spiritual sites in Hawaii.  It is difficult to describe the energy, I first felt it at the Birthing Stone site on Oahu.

 It seems that there are certain “magic” spots where this energy occurs and I had come to associate it with the birthing site although it may have been something completely different.  As I stepped into the hot spot, a rush of light and bubbly energy rushed up the front of my legs and entered my torso running around and around the front of my torso but only as high as the area of the solar plexus.  When I first experienced this energy at the Kukaniloko Birthing Stones on Oahu I could quite imagine it would facilitate the easing of childbirth and perhaps even act as a type of anaesthetic.  I wasn’t in pain at the time so this would be difficult to prove but it was as though there was a path of energy from the ground right up my legs and rushing around my torso to the solar plexus.  It was amazing energy and I quite enjoyed the sensation. 

The hot spot was between the tree and the hut and towards the sea, I felt it immediately as I stepped into a particular area and when I stepped away it stopped. In the picture below the spot would be behind the tree between the tree and the sea

The site is very interesting even if you do not manage to find the right spot.  There are some excellent examples of life in those days including a game called Kõnane played by Hawaiians who presumably didn’t have Wii and  digital televisions and a fish lagoon for keeping fish alive until they were needed, a kind of ancient larder or refrigerator.  There are also some demonstrations and shows at the Visitor Centre  I do recommend a visit if you are in the area. © 2009

Getting to the Park

Take Hawaii 11 to Hawaii 160 (intersection is between mileposts 103 And 104) continue downhill 4 miles to Park Entrance

This story extracted from Where is Hazel.com  

Hazel Leung