A Heiau is a place of worship central to Hawaiian religious beliefs.  From the Heiau the Kahuna  (priest) communicated with the Gods and advised the Ali’i  (chief) on important religions matters.  Heiau were constructed for different reasons ranging from states of war to ensuring sufficient rainfall, successful fishing and that harvests were abundant.

Prior to 1819  a system of laws called kapu (taboo) were enforced in order to maintain law and order.  These laws were based on religious and practical beliefs and were imposed by the sovereign Ali'i on the entire population. The kapu system was extremely restrictive and rigid, with severe penalties for those who broke a kapu. Death was not an uncommon penalty for breaching the laws which might have been as simple as trespassing on an area reserved for royalty.  The kapu system was in effect for many centuries before it was officially overthrown in 1819, after the death of Kamehameha. At this time the worshipping of gods and old religions practices were abolished and so the Heiau of Hawaii were mostly destroyed.

Kamehameha the Great built this Heiau in around 1790 because of a prophecy by a Kahuna known as Kapoukahi.  The priest told Kamehameha that if he built a heiau on the hill known as Pu’ukohola and dedicated it to his family’s war god he would be able to conquer all the Islands.

A Pu'u (the first part of the name) is a cinder cone which forms on the rift zone of a volcano, a place where lava pushes up and leaves a mound which can later collapse in the centre.  Most likely the power of the Heiau is associated with the power of the rift or vent of the volcano.  Hawaiians believe that the fire Goddess Madame Pele is responbile for volcanic erruptions.

As I looked up at the imposing structure high on the hill I asked for its message but received none.  It loomed above me and I felt unwelcome, repelled even, as if there was some kind of mild hostility all around me, not threatening in any way but I felt I had no business there.  I guess the system of Kapu is still alive and well if I had entered the Heiau in the days of the Kahuna I would most certainly have been put to death

What a contrast to a Buddhist temple, every one I have entered has the most serene of energies, you feel enveloped in peace and love.  I viewed a few Heiau whilst on the Big Island and I felt the same energy every time, as if there was an unseen barrier between me and the structure and I was to stay away.  You are not allowed to enter the area of the Heiau, especially the ones on this site as they are under reconstruction and repair.  Even so the atmosphere around them  did not seem inviting, spiritual or friendly to me, in fact, I felt repelled by the whole area.

Pu’ukohola Heiau is not the only structure of interest in Pelekane Bay.  There is a smaller Heiau known as Mailekini (seen in the foreground of the first picture) but I could not find out what it was dedicated to.  Although it is Kapu (forbidden) to enter sacred Heiau’s Mailekini is more accessible than Pu’ukohola.  It is believed to be much older than Pu’ukohola, it is obviously much smaller and does not have such a commanding position.  As I paused near this Heiau I did not receive any great inights or energy just the same repulsion that I felt when viewing Pu’ukohola. I think it was the area that repulsed me rather than the structures themselves. Although there could have been some connection to Kapu as I have already mentioned.

Pelekane Bay is an area where villages have existed over the years and in the Bay itself is yet another Heiau, Hale O Kapuni a submerged Heiau which seems to have been destroyed or eroded over the years but it was dedicated as a temple to sharks.  Hawaiians believe that the spirit of their ancestors live in certain animals and to have one close or appear at certain times was considered fortunate.  Sacrifices were left on this Heiau for these sharks and, although the history as given at the visitor centre and on the billboard, did not indicate what kind of  offerings were made I was soon to get an pretty good idea myself.

Kikiako’i (stone leaning post, pictured below) is said to have been where Chief Alapa’i K ûpalupalu Manõ would sit and watch the sharks devour the offerings.  As I walked long the path and near the post I was struck with strong sense of fear, the kind you get when something is about to happen and you are powerless to prevent it.  My stomach lurched and I felt like I would lose bladder control.  I didn’t but I sure did feel the futility that went with a fear that left me in no doubt that human sacrifices had taken place here.

The feeling did not last long and I just kept walking the path along the shore back towards the visitor centre, I looked back to view the site to see if I could gain a different impression.  My impression did not change, I was glad to be leaving as I felt that this was not a happy place.

Not all hawaiian sites are like this, I went to others which brought a great sense of peace. ©

This story is extracted from Where is Hazel.com

Hazel Leung